From dry-grown vines planted in 1920, this Kilikanoon Ashton 1920 Mataro has some serious pedigree and plenty of personality.
Aromas of cured meats, tilled earth and charcoal set the scene, before dense dark fruit fills the palate with blackberry compote, blueberries and red currants, finished with a lick of licorice bullets.
There’s a distinct rustic edge here. It walks with a sexy swagger and a touch of retro masculinity, bringing plenty of savoury character without losing its sense of freshness.
And the length! Persistent, layered, curious and seriously moreish, this is a wine that keeps revealing itself long after the first sip.
A ripping Mataro and one to savour.
94/100
Region: Clare Valley