Mike and Melissa Brown have set sail from Gemtree and have set up a new project, M Squared. Still passionate about organic and biodynamic farming, this Fiano 2026 is their first release of the variety.
Fiano has found a happy home in McLaren Vale. In fact, it now stands as the region's most planted white variety and wines like this make a compelling case as to why.
Cut pear, canned pear, cold-pressed green apple juice, lemon zest and lemon juice burst from the glass with plenty of varietal character. A drizzle of honey and a shimmer of hazelnut add intrigue, bringing layers without weighing things down. The palate is more focused and precise in style, with a fine minerally thread carrying the fruit long and true. Cinnamon spice flickers gently in the background, while a sherbet-like tang keeps everything lively and engaging. Texture, freshness and flavour all seem to pull in the same direction. What I like most is how confidently it presents itself. A mighty fine debut that captures both the appeal of the variety and the suitability of the region. Watch this space.
91/100
Region: McLaren Vale
