Rockburn's entry-level label is Devil's Staircase. Here we have a Pinot Gris from Central Otago.
I'm not in love I must admit. This is hard going. There is some weight here that I feel I'm pushing against. A salmon against the current one could say. But being a Pinot Gris I don't want a struggle, I want refreshment. That last bit is not easy to find here given it comes across with oxidised apple and custard apple feels. Some varietal spice is present with honeyed tones but there is a curious secondary feature which I can only describe as apple scrumpy. Anyway, I shall move on. There are others I'd prefer. Mind you, spend the extra few dollars and charge at the Rockburn Pinot Gris 2019. It's a belter.
84/100
Region: Central Otago