Monday, 30 September 2013

Payten & Jones Browne's Block Pinot Noir 2012

Payten & Jones has slowly evolved from their debut vintage in 2006. Over that time they have been very specific to identify particular vineyards and parcels of fruit to give a true representation of place.

Behn Payten (winemaker at Punt Road) and Troy Jones are the brains behind the label. Chatting with Troy, it is hard not to be enthused by their philosophy and will to succeed. He goes on to say, "We have simple philosophies in relation to the vineyard and winery…. Less is more…. We practice sustainable viticulture, with a ‘hands off’ approach to wine making. We want the site to come to life. We don’t want to change what the vineyard gives us, or take away form the site. We want it to shine. We want each of our wines to reflect that specific patch of dirt from where it came, so no filtering or fining, oak use is to complex not to overwhelm and we only add a little hit of sulfur just before we bottle."

Only two puncheons were used to make this Pinot Noir yielding only 150 dozen. The fascinating thing about this wine is the fruit comes from a 39 year old vineyard in Kilmore. Yep. Kilmore! Interestingly enough, Kilmore has no GI and doesn't fall under any of the known wine regions.

To put it out there, I thought this Pinot was tremendous! I do like Pinot with a little more guts than finesse and this fits the bill perfectly. It's as though it's Justin Bieber dressed up as Mr T. That is, modern and hip with some grunt factor.

Eight months in old oak with 10% whole bunches used, it has produced a wine with ballsy characters of earth, black olive, freshly kicked up forest mulch and savoury highlights.

The fruit washes through the mouth smoothly and there is some warmth to follow. Tannins are soft. And just as you think all is done, like a wave, the savoury character washes from the back through the mouth.

I loved it and if you are in for something a little left of centre, definitely stick it on your list.

Jones says duck pancakes to match, and I agree. I'm even thinking Venison would go well too.

Available predominately in Victoria at numerous restaurants and good independent retailers with availability creeping into NSW and QLD, or contact Troy Jones via email.

Who: Payten & Jones
What: Pinot Noir (13% alc)
Where: Kilmore
When: 2012
How: $40

www.PaytenandJones.com.au