Golden Grove Vermentino 2014

Here's another textural delight from Ray Costanzo.

Small white flowers and citrus aromas spill from the glass. There's a sprinkle of spice with a wash of lemon juice at the death, but that lingering textural thing Ray has perfected with some of his white wines sits pretty well. Many Vermentinos wipe the slate clean at the finish but this just loiters with intent. Partial barrel ferment the key here.

Whatever Ray is doing with this variety,  I hope he doesn't change it.

Very good.

Region: Granite Belt
RRP: $26
Source: Sample

www.goldengroveestate.com.au

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de iuliis Steven Vineyard Shiraz 2013

This is an outstanding wine made from the famed Steven vineyard in the Hunter Valley which was planted in 1968 on red volcanic soil.

Picked a little early, the initial plan was to blend this parcel away. But Mike de Iullis was so impressed with how the wine presented he left it as a single vineyard label. The result is a medium bodied (12.5%), pretty and fragrant bottle of juice.

The dark cherry fruit is pure, sitting softly and delicately. Red earth characters run underneath the fruit which has great drive yet delicate poise. Soft spice rattles through to a supple and long satisfying finish.

This will comfortably cellar for ten years and I'd certainly go here again.

Region: Hunter Valley
RRP: $40
Source: Sample

www.dewine.com.au

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Witches Falls Wild Ferment Grenache 2012

There's not too much Grenache on the Granite Belt with most of it blended away. So it's good to see one from the region standing tall without the need of a wingman or two.

Wild fermented, it comes across quite clean and not too funky. This is a respectable drop which is perfectly suited to a barbequed steak.

Lots of raspberry and earthy traits plus a lick of granite minerality. It's a lighter style of Grenache as seen by the crimson appearance. Black pepper rides the wave all the way through and the finish is soft and fine.

I'd happily have a glass but I don't think it is worth the stated $32. Winery members receive a discount and pay only $25 which I think is more reasonable for what you get.

Region: Granite Belt

RRP: $32

Source: Sample

www.witchesfalls.com.au

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Friday Drinks Radio 4BC 21 November - Yarra Valley

Yarra Valley was the focus of this chat. Also mentioned were some young winemakers doing from very cool things; namely, Dave Mackintosh, Luke Lambert, and Behn Payten & Troy Jones.

Listen in here

My bang for buck picks this week:
De Bortoli Villages Pinot Noir 2012
Oakridge Over the Shoulder Pinot Noir 2012

O'Leary Walker Watervale Riesling 2014

This is all flowers and citrus, and just like its sibling, it's balanced with poise and precision. I love the juicy lime fruit and then the big "don't argue" palm off as the acid cleanses all before. A touch of lemon juice just hovers delicately on the finish too. Classy.

This strolls without the minerality of the Polish Hill, so if you prefer more fruit, head this way.

Excellent and super value.

Region: Clare Valley

RRP: $20

Source: Sample

www.olearywalkerwines.com

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O'Leary Walker Polish Hill Riesling 2014

Steely and minerally as always with a delicate and pretty fragrance. Attractive florals but the beautiful balance of fruit and acid here just make it perfect. The fruit drives through with purpose too.

I'm mad keen on the cleansing finish, but really, I'm just mad keen on this Riesling.

Match with prawns. Please do.

You can find it just below $20 around the traps; a bargain!

Excellent.

Region: Clare Valley

RRP: $22

Source: Sample

www.olearywalkerwines.com

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De Bortoli Yarra Valley Villages Pinot Noir 2012

De Bortoli have a knack of producing bargain priced Pinot Noir, and here we go again.

There's so much to like about this. It's soft and supple with dark cherries, hints of plum, a sliver of cured meat, and a little dash of spice to top it off. A savoury character lingers nicely on the finish too urging you to go back for more. And it's not hard to I can assure you. One of the descriptors on the label is, "calm". Yep, it is. Very calming indeed.

And if you think this is a smart drop, you better check out the Villages Chardonnay.

Have a look around as you can often find it below the RRP.

Excellent value for money. Very good wine.

Region: Yarra Valley

RRP: $20

Source: Sample

www.debortoli.com.au

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Oakridge Over the Shoulder Pinot Noir 2012

This is Oakridge's entry level range, and it's pretty damn fine particularly as it is hand picked and sourced from five vineyards.

A word I'd use to describe this wine is fleshy. The fruit delivered is just that. Dark cherries, some mushroomy composty action, dried herbs and what I can only nail down as stewed rhubarb. There's plenty going on, that's for sure.

With some texture in the mix, it's still bright with a soft, fine length.

Spot it under $20 and it's a no brainer.

Very good.

Region: Yarra Valley
RRP: $20
Source: Sample

www.oakridgewines.com.au

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Bilgavia Estate Pinot Noir 2014

The easiest way to look at this wine is a light bodied Shiraz.

Whilst the Hunter is now not seen as one of our premium Pinot producers of Pinot Noir, you need to remember the climate here is different to Victoria and Tassie where the Pinot dance floor is pumping and the music is up loud!

More red fruits like strawberries and raspberries than cherries. More red earthy like than forest floor and mushrooms. There's a good whiff of oak and a little spice and fair length, but in terms of what you want from a good Pinot, it's probably not here. I lined this up against two $20 Yarra Valley types, and whilst it perhaps wasn't a fair contest, this was beaten hands down.

In the words of Cold Chisel, this is standing on the outside looking in, and I don't want to ask for a dance.

Region: Hunter Valley
RRP: $26
Source: Sample

www.bilgaviaestate.com.au

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Balnaves The Blend 2012

A classic blend of Cabernet (51%), Merlot (43%) and Franc (6%) with some attitude and finesse. The minty character of the Cabernet skips through hot on the tail of juicy blackberry and blackcurrant fruit and smokey oak. Medium bodied, this is soft with depth and a lingering grip.

I found the open sample bottle after three days and the contents were still rocking it. Age worthy and slurpable. What's more, I still can't believe the price. A great buy and well worth aging for up to ten years.

Very good.

Region: Coonawarra
RRP: $19
Source: Sample

www.balnaves.com.au

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Raidis Estate The Kid Riesling 2014

Steve Raidis could well pose as a superhero under the guise of Bang for Buck Man. He is making some seriously good booze at very reasonable prices. And here is yet another example.

There's some slight fresh cut apple aromas but you get swarmed by lovely citrus and florals. Coonawarra is not your "go to" region when it comes to Riesling, but this is a terrific expression of the variety which punches out some tasty fruit. Dry and cleansing, it slides down with ease.

Match it with prawns, I did!

Very good.

Region: Coonawarra
RRP: $20
Source: Sample 

www.raidis.com.au

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Rolf Binder Heysen Shiraz 2012

The vines for this wine were planted in 1972 and what struck me was its balance and silky smooth touch. It just possesses a delicacy which you cannot help but to be charmed by. Despite being a 2012, you can get a good picture of where this wine is heading.

Grown on sandy soil, the fruit is rich, long and moreish. It's overflowing with all the quality traits of a great Barossa Shiraz, whilst not being too heavy nor over the top. Certainly not a knife and fork type, just soothing like Rolf's dulcet tones.

Delish now, but give it another year or two. I reckon it will see its best days in the next 5-10 years.

Excellent.

Region: Barossa Valley
RRP: $70
Source: Tasting

www.rolfbinder.com

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Symphony Hill Gewurztraminer 2014

Owner Ewen Macpherson says this wine has jazz hands. I know what he means. Well, sort of. There's something very special and alluring about it. So much so, it was recently awarded the Best Other Single Varietal Wine at the Royal Melbourne Wine Awards.

Although Symphony Hill is a winery part Queensland's Granite Belt region, winemaker Mike Hayes sources the fruit from the New England region just down the road.

Pretty and attractive aromas of rose petals and Turkish delight run riot filling the glass. These move seamlessly to delicious fruit highlighted by lychee and some lavender. A gentle flutter of spice lingers brilliantly on a long and soft finish.

It's just one of those wines you shake your head at in amazement. I did a bit of head shaking, and some buying. A couple made their way home.

Outstanding.

Region: New England
RRP: $35
Source: Cellar Door

www.symphonyhill.com.au

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Bilgavia Estate Shiraz 2013

This is a label I haven't seen before which naturally brings some excitement.

On first look the colour seemed dull and a little lifeless sadly. It appeared advanced if anything. Ignoring that, the wine presented aromas of stewed fruit and plum compote followed by a good core of fruit. There was a smokey character which rolled through but this seemed to remove itself the following day.

A day on and not only was the smokey character gone, the fruit seemed to find some more life, almost finding a second wind to be bouncy and lively. Black fruits came to the fore but the finish just flattened out.

A wine that needs some time for it to show its best but I'm not convinced time will improve it dramatically.

Region: Hunter Valley
RRP: $26
Source: Sample

www.bilgaviaestate.com.au

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Golden Grove Estate Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2014

The Granite Belt is not the place you'd expect Semillon and Sauvignon to flourish but this blend (62 & 38% respectively) has summer time flashing in neon lights.

Grassy and green melon aromas from the Sauvignon Blanc take charge followed by a rush of citrus via the Semillon. There's a pithy character in there too. Lifted and fresh in the glass, but what wins me over is the textured palate.  The small Semillon portion that is wild yeast fermented (15%) in new French oak is responsible for this.

Winemaker Ray Costanzo is becoming somewhat of a textural gun with his whites. His take Vermentino exemplifies this.

Cleansing acid is balanced with the fruit beautifully. But in the end, it's that textural thing going on which just lingers and hums that has sucked me in.

Excellent wine and super value at $18.

Available online, at the cellar door or Brisbane's Wine Experience at Rosalie.

Region: Granite Belt
RRP: $18
Source: Sample

www.goldengroveestate.com.au

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d'Arenberg The Money Spider Roussanne 2013

An interesting wine but one which left me more questions than answers.

Upon opening there were aromas similar to canned peach and apricot syrup with a dash of lemon butter. With more time in the glass this morphed into subdued pear, green mango and some green melon.

Soft fruit but front palate dominant, it doesn't draw to the back and leaves it feeling empty. You get a sense it is trying to stretch itself but just doesn't have the elasticity to get there. The acid is not balanced and is bitey and feels like it's tearing at my teeth. Some fatty food wasn't able to help me out here either. Sad face.

Despite going back a few times, it just couldn't woo me. No thanks.

Region: McLaren Vale
RRP: $20
Source: Sample

www.darenberg.com.au

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Kellermeister The First Born Shiraz 2012

There's a charm to this wine which makes you want to just snuggle up to it.

Lovely florals, dark chocolate, baking spice and some meaty aromas move to a warming palate of soft fruit. The length is seductively long and generous with sandy tannins leaving their mark.

A very good wine which will only improve in the cellar.

Region: Barossa Valley
RRP: $45
Source: Tasting

www.kellermeister.com.au

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Tobin Wines Max Shiraz Block One 2013

Adrian Tobin is a passionate and driven individual who takes considerable pride in his vineyard and the wines he produces. At 75 years of age, his enthusiasm is infectious.

All of his wines are named after his grandchildren, and of the 14 wines on his list, half are already sold out. The wines are single varietals produced in small batches and no blending takes place. "We pick, crush and ferment without manipulating anything," he says.

In the glass, the aromas from this Shiraz suggest it is a dense wine. Not the case. A lovely expression of cool climate Shiraz is highlighted by dark fruits, chocolate, a vanilla kick and a spice punch on the finish. Elegant describes the delivery best.

I bought one for the cellar to revisit in a few years.

Very good.

Region: Granite Belt
RRP: $45
Source: Tasting

www.tobinwines.com.au

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Knappstein Clare Valley Hand Picked Riesling 2014

If you need an excuse to explore what Riesling can offer you, check this.

The fruit delivered is so clean and pure. Bursting with limes and a hint of white flowers,  I can see myself kicking back cruising a river on a boat, the sun setting and a glass of this firmly in my hand. There's persistence and drive with a dry cleansing finish.

A ripping deal if found under the RRP and I recently spotted this advertised for $17! Now that's a bargain.

Have with a bucket of prawns if you like, but I'll sip mine on its own thank you very much to savour ever drop. Now, to the boat ramp!

Excellent.

Region: Clare Valley
RRP: $20
Source: Sample

www.knappstein.com.au

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Montalto Estate Chardonnay 2013

A seriously good Chardy with some swagger and charisma.

I just like the way this is cut. Good fruit, nicely balanced, well weighted and some textural interest. Stone fruits and a creaminess work in unison and deliver a wine with poise and drive.

I like this muchly. I'd happily purchase it to share with friends.

Very good.

Region: Mornington Peninsula
RRP: $39
Source: Sample

www.montalto.com.au

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Friday Drinks on Radio 4BC 31 October - Vineyard fire at Twisted Gum

A fire wrecked havoc at a small vineyard on the Granite Belt earlier in the week. Fire and vines don't mix, and the end result in this case wasn't good.

Listen in here

Wines to look out for this week:

Dandelion Vineyards Lionheart of the Barossa Shiraz 2012 $27.50

Soul Growers Single Vineyard Riesling 2014 $20

Rusty Mutt Catnip Viognier 2014

An easy drinking style which is clean and steers clear of the greasy Viognier stereotype. And the secret to the freshness is the use of a Sauvignon Blanc yeast which brings this all to the fore. Who wouldda thunk it?

Honeyed characters dominate the nose with a dash of lychee and typical apricots. Whilst the fruit hangs on, some spice rolls on through taking the fruit's feet from underneath, leaving a long and lingering finish.

Certainly worth a look, particularly the style in which it is made.

Very good.

Region: McLaren Vale
RRP: $24
Source: Sample

www.rustymutt.com

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Bimbadgen Fortified Verdelho NV

I kept going back for more of this excellent and most tasty gear. But fortified is not everyone's drink of choice, so here's an idea to mix it up a little...

Soak a cup of dried fruit with a cup of this fortified overnight. Pour generously over ice cream...Christmas Day dessert sorted!

Loaded with aromas of hazelnuts, butterscotch and toffee plus some orange zest and dried apricots, it's quite alluring I must say.

The mouth is coated nicely but this is a drop which is not too dense nor heavy as some fortifieds can be. There's a warmth to the length which just persists and hangs on for what seems an eternity.

Yep, do that Christmas Day dessert thingy with a little glass on the side just for good measure. I reckon it will hit the mark.

Region: Hunter Valley
RRP: $28
Source: Sample

www.bimbadgen.com.au

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