From the Broke Fordwich subregion of the Hunter Valley, this Tempranillo from Cael's Gate arrives with plenty of intent.
Blackberry fruit and blackberry liqueur notes sit at the core, but it's the oak that protrudes powerfully from the glass and blankets much of the fruit. As a result, the palate is firm and uncompromising. Powdery tannins are scattered across the palate, bringing a drying, puckering mouthfeel that tightens its grip with every sip. There’s no shortage of structure or conviction, but this is a wine that powers along like a bulldozer, flattening subtlety and leaving little room for charm to emerge. For me, Tempranillo is at its best when it balances savoury detail with juicy fruit, vitality and an easy rapport with food. This takes a different path. It dominates in a somewhat brutish fashion, commanding attention rather than inviting it. There’s certainly muscle here, but it doesn’t engage or embrace quite as much as hoped.
85/100
Region: Hunter Valley
