Yalumba The Caley Cabernet Shiraz 2016

"People want to see greatness," winemaker Kevin Glastonbury tells me. And he's right. From a most impressive vintage, pour a glass, embrace the aromas and sip slow - you'd be forgiven for thinking you were knocking on the door to the promised land. Welcome to The Caley 2016.

I was privileged to sit through a tasting with Glastonbury and his excitement about this wine could not have been more evident. That wry smile exuding nothing but pride - and rightly so. This is a master piece.

The fifth release of The Caley, Glastonbury says he has taken much from the 2012 and 2013 which have since shaped recent releases. The 2015 and 2016 are driven by the Coonawarra Cabernet's style, structure and aromatics. 

The beauty of The Caley is that it demonstrates vintage variance - something some other premium priced wines in the market shy away from. Only ever from two specific vineyards (one each in Coonawarra and the Barossa), the oak management has also varied in this time with 25-45% new French oak having been used. 

"Mindful and respectful of what the vintage will deliver," 25% new French oak was used for the 2016 with the final blend seeing twelve months in oak. "We want it in barrel as long as possible," Glastonbury adds. 

But how does it taste?

For this release, the Coonawarra Cabernet is really shining through at the moment. A 71/29 blend, the dense black fruit and cassis of the Cabernet make a move early but it is the savoury characters that shine bright. This vineyard produces wonderful savoury pleasure highlighted by dried herbs, black olives, fine earthiness and delicate spices. Partnered beautifully by the perfumed Barossa Shiraz, it slowly gathers momentum. A fine sheet of powdery tannin is feathered through the mouth and seems to land and stick. It is that richness through the mid-palate that sets this release apart from the previous. The fruit just sings yet there is an underlying tension that keeps tugging away ensuring things are in check. That restraint is a beacon for aging. An incredible wine that is a celebration of vintage and tannin, this will reward for many years to come. But for now, I will just stand and applaud in awe. Insanely brilliant.

Drink 2023 to 15 years+

97/100

Region: Coonawarra and Barossa

RRP: $365
Source: Sample

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