Oak makes the first impression. Whoa! It has a clout. So much so, scents of walnuts and hazelnuts bolt out of the glass ahead of the fruit. Black cherries follow, joined by black tea, apricot kernel and fruit bun spices, while a ribbon of warmth weaves its way through the palate. Thankfully, time is its friend. By day two, the wine settles considerably, allowing more raspberries and blue fruits to emerge. Even then, cedar remains a prominent character and the warmth never completely retreats. For mine, this struggles to find the shape and flexibility that elevate the best examples of the style. I recently reviewed another McLaren Vale GSM that delivered greater poise, energy and sheer drinking pleasure, and I'd happily run back to that bottle given the choice.
88/100
Region: McLaren Vale
