Robert Stein The Kinnear 2014

If you have a perception Mudgee isn't a great wine region, perhaps introducing yourself to the wines from Robert Stein may change all that. This is a winery really excelling at the moment. Hot off the press is the new flagship for Robert Stein, named after the ship which brought Johann Stein to Australia in 1838.



A three mast Barque, the Kinnear was also the first ship to bring Riesling cuttings to Australia. There's a spot of Aussie wine trivia for you.

This red is a blend of Shiraz and a dollop of Cabernet (97/3) with the fruit coming off the winery's best 40 year vines and will only be released from the best vintages. 2015, 2016 and 2017 are already in bottle having a little sleep.

18 months in new and one year old French and American oak.

This looked better on day two and three of tasting. Much better on three to be honest. It comes across quite rigid and uptight. Dry, it saps moisture from the mouth drawing on saliva. Acid still holds a freshness and tension, red apple like. Once settled, earthy, smokey and savoury characters are the hero flanked stewed plum and dried dark berry fruit seemingly taking a back seat. The fruit steps up and plays more of a part in later days.  Power without punch, the fruit is undoubtedly generous too. Black pepper spice and chalky tannins close up shop. Once in form, there's a rhythm to this wine which is hard to ignore.

It's best drinking ahead of it, but for now, it seems in need of more rest. Give it that, but if you must drink now,  decant hours before drinking.

Drink 2020 to a decade+

94/100

Region: Mudgee
RRP: $80
Source: Sample

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