I'm a big fan of Tim Smith's Viognier. He has built quite a reputation for it, not to mention the value you get for $30. There's a purity and confidence to his handling of the variety that few seem able to match.
This release, however, feels like a vintage that marched to its own beat.
On opening, I was immediately struck by the sheer volume of apricot character. It felt as though I'd peeled back the lid on a can of apricot nectar and taken a generous swig. The palate is awash with those rich, nectar-like flavours, coating every corner of the mouth in a way that's far more overt than I've come to expect from this wine.
Faint notes of ginger biscuit, yellow peach and canned pear add further interest, but the spotlight remains firmly on the fruit. There's no denying it's a good drink. In fact, many will find plenty to enjoy in its generosity and flavour.
But vintage variation speaks volumes here. For mine, it lacks some of the poise, freshness and varietal purity that have made previous releases so memorable. In all, it's a solid Viognier, just not at the level of its predecessors.
92/100
Region: Eden Valley

