This is clever. Classy without question. A Chardonnay that glides with precision and speaks of winemaking excellence. Tasted blind in a lineup of six 2020 Chardonnays, this Levantine Hill Optume certainly captured my attention from the outset.
Revealed as wine #3 in the lineup, to use the words of Stu Robinson (@thevinsomniac) who was invited to be a part of the tasting at Qwine HQ, "It stands out like a carpenter's thumb."
Only 660 bottles were produced and I am most grateful that owner Elias Jreissati reached out and offered me the opportunity to taste this wine given no samples have been sent to any other wine scribes.
All wines in the lineup had a similar appearance in the glass but this Levantine Hill had a very slight bronze shade. Furthermore, on first inspection, my thoughts were that this was "very French", quite the outlier in this context. It seems my initial thought carried some truth following a conversation with winemaker Paul Bridgeman after the tasting.
Given his experiences in France, Bridgeman decided that the top wine in the Levantine Hill range would be a district blend rather than rather the obsession with single vineyards which is most common in Australia - a Burgundian model v Rhone model you could say.
In his quest to "craft the best Australian Chardonnay," the idea was born from a high-end appellation in south-west of France.
This Optume Chardonnay 2020 is a blend of seven sites including the Upper Yarra with the identities of these parcels kept secret for now. The fruit is from different clones and is picked slightly later delivering richness and silkness. Bridgeman says he is a "big fan of generosity and flavour."
The result of quite a labour intensive process that included meticulous fruit selection, each parcel was barrel fermented separately and handled the same. Whole bunch pressed, the ferment commenced with wild yeasts but then inoculated with a specific yeast to complete the ferment. Some parcels went through natural MLF before blending. Only one parcel saw 100% new French oak.
A wine layered with interest, the veneers of detail peel off with ease. Scents of brioche and sourdough early move to vanilla custard and pastry. There was even a scent of candied almonds to tease. Waxy apples, green apples and preserved lemons along with some white fleshed peaches drive the fruit profile. Delicate cinammon spices curl around the mouth with a flash of honey toast coming and going. Whipped butter and some vanilla deliver a sheet of creaminess with hazelnuts and roasted almonds adding further savoury delight. The texture, richness and mouthfeel call for you to surrender. A wine of unfettered quality, sip slow and you'll feel as though you are floating on a cloud. Brilliance in a glass. Bravo.
96/100
Region: Yarra Valley
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