An $85 Riesling is certainly ambitious, but dig a little deeper and the reason is credible. A blend of fruit parcels from 2018, 2019, 2021 and 2022, this release from Gundog Estate's Matt Burton is an exploration of flavours and textures.
It comes in a big, weighty bottle, cork seal and little information on the label scant of vintage or origin only with the words on the back, "Love. Courage Integrity."
Scents of musk, pie apple and Jasmine flower skip from the glass. Apple sours, custard apple and riverstones drive through the mouth. It's shapely (to use a word) and drying with a fine powdery touch - there is certainly plenty to consider so the objective has been achieved. There's a joyous presence about it and you get the sense it's up for light-hearted conversation rather than getting in deep. A lick of residual sugar leaves a dab on the front of the palate and that minerality rides long. A more than respectable project wine.
Drink to eight years+