One of the five original single vineyard Barbarescos produced by this co-operative back in 1967, it also comes from the northernmost site. In a glass, the Riserva Ovello 2019 from Produttori del Barbaresco unveils a classic red brick hue, an immediate signal of its Nebbiolo pedigree.
Though not available for general sale, this bottling is offered exclusively to a select list of devotees who commit a year in advance, a fitting tribute to the wine’s cult status. At €55, it remains one of the best value wines from the world-class Barbaresco district.
On the nose and palate, the wine unfurls layered sheets of delicacy. Aromas of dried violets, orange peel and a thread of licorice root that adds fascinating depth. Flowing through to the palate, some plummy weight adds further interest. Buxom tannins coat the mouth, full and textural without being brutish. The tannins are a defining feature, as expected. They are grippy but also finely tuned. Think velvet stretched over oak. It’s a wine that holds the palate, demanding slow attention and rewarding it with unfolding nuance.
All up, it's a wine that showcases power veiled in grace. A cellar-worthy gem.
Drink to 15 years+
95/100