The second release from Mike and Melissa Brown under their new label M Squared, this Albariño is still finding its voice.
Formerly the driving force behind Gemtree's organic and biodynamic wines, the Browns continue that farming philosophy here, focusing their attention on just Fiano and Albariño - for now...
This release is noticeably more tense and tightly wound than the 2025. Cut pears, lemon juice and a sea spray freshness lead the charge, while green apple acidity brings a crunch that has the mouth watering from the outset. There's a flicker of minerality too, with a steely thread running through the core.
Texture remains a feature, but the wine's tension steals much of the limelight, making it feel less expressive and immediately charming than last year's release. For mine, it cries out for something fatty alongside it. Tempura prawns or even a bowl of fries would do the trick nicely.
I preferred the openness of the 2025, but perhaps time is the answer here. A little more bottle age may allow it to relax into its own skin and reveal its full hand.
89/100
Region: McLaren Vale
