This Schwarz Wine Co. Meta Grenache is walking a very different path from those previous, and one that raised my eyebrows.
From the outset, this feels like the most savoury release under this label to date. With 95% whole bunch and wild yeast fermentation, the green stems take centre stage from the first sniff. Green herbs, cut rosemary and a distinct bunchy astringency push well ahead of the fruit.
Where past releases have burst from the glass with waves of energetic red and blue fruit, that trademark slurp factor is dialled right back here. Instead, the whole bunch influence seizes the focus, driving a firm, herbal and stem-laden profile that rarely loosens its grip.
There’s no doubting the intent (it's a proven successful formula used many times previously), but for mine the dial has been pushed a touch too far. It serves as a reminder of the gamble that comes with whole bunch fermentation when the ripeness isn’t quite there. Far removed from the slurpable, smashable Grenache style this label has delivered in the past, this release leaves me wanting more fruit and less stem. I'd prefer others.
86/100
Region: Barossa
